Turkey seeks protected status for traditional döner

Turkey has recently applied to the European Union to register the name "döner" as a "guaranteed traditional specialty." This would mean that only döner prepared with specific ingredients and methods could continue to carry the name.

Battle for recognition

The application, published in the Official Journal of the EU, highlights Turkey’s desire to preserve the authenticity of this popular snack. If successful, döner would join other protected delicacies such as Belgian Geuze beer and Napolitana pizza. Under EU regulations, only döners that meet these strict criteria would be entitled to use the name. This includes variations with red meat like beef and lamb, as well as chicken versions.

Clashing culinary cultures

The popularity of döner kebab has spread across Europe over the years, with its origins often disputed between Turkey and Greece. The Greeks argue that döner is similar to their gyros, which became popular following the population exchange between Turks and Greeks in 1922. This historical claim could potentially lead to objections to the Turkish application. Opponents have three months, as per policy, to express their objections.

Market impact

Should the application be approved, it could have significant effects on the sales and pricing of döner across Europe. Snack bars and restaurants deviating from the traditional method of preparation would no longer be allowed to use the döner name. This could lead to a shift in how the snack is commercially offered and consumed. Despite potential price increases, the turnover from döner in Europe remains impressive, with an estimated annual revenue of 3.5 billion euros.

Vrt.be